Turn off the busy Strand onto Savoy Hill and not only will the noise levels dramatically drop but you will find a beautiful Tudor church, dating from 1515.
It is called Savoy Chapel or the King’s Chapel of the Savoy. I talk about it very regularly on my Strand: Power, Wealth and Empire tour, so I recently popped inside to pay it a proper visit.
The church and the site it sits on have a fascinating history that takes us back to medieval London.
A Royal Palace
In medieval and Tudor London many of the rich and wealthy lived outside the City of London in large mansions and palaces along the Strand. The grandest of these buildings in the 14th century would have been the Savoy Palace.
The land was originally granted to Count Peter of Savoy in 1246 by King Henry III. The gold figure over the entrance to the Savoy Hotel today, built in 1889, represents Count Peter of Savoy.
John of Gaunt, a younger son of King Edward III and second Duke of Lancaster, then built a huge palace here in the 14th century. That palace was targeted during the Peasant’s Revolt in 1381 and pretty much burnt to the ground.
A Hospital For The ‘Pour and Nedie’
What was left of the palace was cleared away in the early 16th century when King Henry VII ordered the construction of a hospital.
It was a hospital in the original sense of the word: a place to provide ‘hospitality’, i.e. a roof and food etc for 100 ‘pour and nedie men’.
The hospital foundation was dissolved in 1702 and most of the buildings demolished in the early 19th century for the approach to the new Waterloo Bridge.
The only remnant of that large complex is one of the three original chapels: the Chapel of St John the Baptist, today known as the King’s Chapel of the Savoy.
You can see the tower of the chapel in the top left corner of the drawing above. The tower and south wall were restored and modified by Robert Smirke from 1820-21.
It is what is known as a ‘Royal Peculiar’ because it is still owned directly by the Queen as part of the Duchy of Lancaster. Other Royal Peculiars in London include Westminster Abbey and Temple Church.
It does however operate as a normal church, is open to visit and is well worth doing so.
Inside The Church: What To Look For
The church saw two destructive fires in 1843 and 1864 and subsequently went through significant restorations, much of it by Sydney Smirke, in the 19th century.
As you enter the nave your eyes will immediately be drawn upwards to the spectacular ceiling.
The ceiling was designed by Thomas Willement after the 1843 fire. It is a close approximation of the original 16th century, Tudor, ceiling.
You may well then spot the array of little plaques around the walls.
In 1937 the church became the home of the Royal Victorian Order, founded in 1896. It is part of the state honours system but given directly at the discretion of the sovereign. The plaques display the member’s coat of arms. There is a little guide to all of them in the church for visitors.
You will also come across the wonderfully ornate font by Edward Blore, dating from 1864.
The reredos (the ornamental screen behind the altar, pictured below) is also by Sydney Smirke in 1864.
The beautiful stained glass windows are also worth spending some time looking at. One for example commemorates the silver jubilee of King George V, the Queen’s grandfather.
The window pictured below commemorates the diamond jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II in 2012.
The flags depict the royal coat of arms of the Queen and the Princess Royal (Princess Anne); the Grand Master of the Royal Victorian Order.
Tudor Survivors
There are a couple of original features to look out for.
Spot the two medieval monuments either side of the altar, survivors of the 1864 fire. One depicts Nicola Moray, the wife of Sir Robert Douglas who died in 1612.
There is also some original stained glass in the museum section of the church.
With plenty of historic features, that stunning ceiling and a fascinating history to the site, it is well worth popping your head in if you get the chance.
How To Visit
The Chapel is free and open for visitors from 9am to 4pm, Monday to Thursday, and for choral services at 11am on Sundays.
Find out more on their website here.
Click here for dates for my Strand: Power, Wealth and Empire tour!
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Fascinating delve into the past. Love it.