Gunnersbury Museum: A Mansion, An Unusual Princess And Local Curiosities

Gunnersbury Park is a beautiful spot for a wander and a much-loved green space for locals. Less well explored, however, is the grand house at its heart, which is home to a fascinating museum.

Its history involves an unconventional princess, one of the wealthiest families in the world and some intriguing stories along the way. Here’s a closer look at the history of Gunnersbury House, along with some of the little details worth looking out for if you visit.

Early History 

In 704AD the Bishop of London acquired the vast Manor of Fulham, spanning much of modern day Hammersmith, Fulham, Acton, Ealing and Finchley and was administered from Fulham Palace, which I have written about previously here. 

One of the smaller manors within it was Gunnersbury, first recorded in the 14th century. The name likely comes from Gunhild or Gunner’s fort/manor. Local legend has it that it refers to Gunhilda, the niece of King Canute (King of England from 1016-1035), because the story goes that she lived in the area until she was banished from the country in 1044.

The Estate takes Shape

During Cromwell’s Protectorate in the 17th century, the estate was acquired by a lawyer called Sir John Maynard. By 1658 he and his second wife Jane were building a large Palladian mansion here, designed by John Webb. It had 44 hearths and was apparently visible from Richmond. 

In the 1730s the estate was bought by a merchant and MP called Henry Furnesse. It was Furnesse who created some of the parkland landscape around the house that still survives today, such as the Round Pond.

The House Passes Into Royal Hands

In 1762 the estate passed hands again to Princess Amelia (1711-1786), the second and, apparently, favourite daughter of King George II and Queen Caroline.

She spent much of her time between royal palaces such as Hampton Court and used Gunnersbury as her summer retreat.

An Unconventional Princess

Princess Amelia was initially thought of as a potential match for Frederick, later known as Frederick the Great, King of Prussia, but the plans fell through. The Princess ultimately never married and, despite hosting lavish summer parties at Gunnersbury for high society, she generally lived a rather solitary life. She is said to have had a preference for supposedly ‘masculine’ pursuits, such as riding and hunting. She would often therefore wear practical, more masculine riding attire.

She was also fond of taking snuff, a habit more commonly associated with men at the time and was generally viewed by contemporaries as rather forthright in her manner. Lady Pomfret described her as having ‘her ears shut to flattery and her heart open to honesty’.

In 1751 she had been given the position of Ranger of Richmond Park and caused public outcry when she tried to close Richmond Park to the pesky public. It only reopened after a local brewer called John Lewis sued the gatekeeper and won.

She built what is now known as Princess Amelia’s bathhouse in the grounds of Gunnersbury. It featured a plunge bath, a fashionable shell grotto and, according to some accounts, a dairy. It was later adapted to be an ornamental gothic building.

Just before, or likely just after, Princess Amelia acquired the house, the Temple was constructed in the grounds, designed by William Chambers, as a grand ornament and entertaining space.

Princess Amelia died at her central London home on Cavendish Square in 1786, the last surviving child of George II and Queen Caroline. 

Another Grand rebuild

In 1800 the estate was purchased for development. The mansion was demolished and the parkland split into 13 plots. These were almost entirely, bar one, reassembled by Alexander Copland, a wealthy Scottish builder. The final other plot was bought by Stephen Cosser, a timber merchant and he built what is now known as the Small Mansion. 

The Rothschilds

In 1802 the current impressive building was constructed and in the 1830s the estate was acquired by Baron Nathan Rothschild and his wife Hannah.

Nathan Rothschild had grown up in a Ghetto in Frankfurt and moved to Manchester in 1798. He set up a highly successful textile business and established the British branch of the Rothschild banking empire in London. He became the richest man in Britain but actually never lived at Gunnersbury himself because he died in 1826, not long after the purchase. Gunnersbury became though, for a century, the Rothschild’s retreat from central London.

They added the Orangery, carried out many improvements in the gardens and had the mansion remodelled by architect Sydney Smirke. The Small mansion was eventually acquired by the Rothschilds as well in the 1880s. 

A Public Park

Nathan’s grandchild Leopold de Rothschild died in 1917 and his son Evelyn, who was meant to inherit the estate died the same year fighting in Palestine. It was around this time also that the Great West Road was being proposed that would run right along the edge of the estate, so negotiations began to sell the estate. Their country retreat was not quite so rural anymore. 

In 1925 Gunnersbury Park was acquired by Ealing and Acton Borough councils as a public park. They initially wanted to build houses along the main roads but the Rothschilds stipulated that the rest of the park could only be put to public use. 

The new park was opened by Neville Chamberlain, then the Health Secretary, in 1926. The mansion opened as a public museum in 1929. 

highlights Of The Museum

Today the museum is totally free to visit and is an eclectic cabinet of curiosities mostly about the history of the boroughs of Ealing and Hounslow, from prehistoric times right up to the modern day. Below are some of my highlights. 

This is a Cyberman that featured in the Doctor Who storyline ‘The Moonbase’ filmed at Ealing studios in 1967. 

Below is the Lucozade sign that was part of one of the first moving art sculptures in London installed when Lucozade’s Brentford headquarters and plant opened in the 1950s overlooking the Great West Road. It featured a bottle that appeared to pour/refill itself.

It was there until 2004 when the building was demolished and rebuilt, the sign replaced with an LED sign and then a digital screen. 

Upstairs they have a Lucozade bottle from 1982. It was originally called Glucozade and aimed at people with common illnesses. 

West London Characters

They have handwritten lyrics by Freddie Mercury who studied art at Isleworth Polytechnic and graphic illustration at Ealing Art College. The handwritten lyrics are for Mother Love, the last song he ever recorded. 

They have a whole cabinet dedicated to Stanley Green, aka the ‘Protein Man’!

Green became known as the Protein Man because for over 25 years he was a familiar sight on Oxford Street campaigning against eating protein for health reasons.

He thought that eating protein could lead to passionate, morally lax behaviour and identified eight ‘passion proteins’: meat, fish, bird, cheese, eggs, peas, nuts and beans. Green would cycle to Oxford Street from where he lived in Ealing, with his placard and pamphlets to sell. 

He also wrote out little cards that say ‘Children need love- smile at them’ which he handed out. 

Stanley Green died in 1993 and he had an obituary in the The Telegraph, The Guardian and the Times.

They have a fashion gallery and an industry gallery with items created in the local area. I enjoyed these 1950s woollen swimming costumes by Jantzens.

A Hoover vacuum cleaner made nearby in 1937.

The Kitchens

Finally, they have incredibly well preserved kitchens. These are open to the public Thursday-Sunday. 

The Rothschilds were, unsurprisingly, at the forefront of modernity with their kitchens and it even featured a hot water tap! 

The network of spaces includes a pastry room, butchery, chef’s office, and scullery. They are used regularly in TV shows and films. The house and gardens generally have featured in Bridgerton, The Essex Serpent, Bend It Like Beckham and Miranda.

How To Visit

Gunnersbury Park and House are a wonderful place to visit, full of history and surprises. The park is open everyday from 7am until dusk. The museum is open Tuesday-Sunday 10am-4.30pm and is free to visit. Find out more on their website here.

They also have various events throughout the year such as a Christmas market and activities for children and families. Find out more here. 

It is accessible via a short walk from Acton Town or South Ealing tube stations, Kew Bridge rail station, or via local bus routes (E3, 65, H91). 

Thank you for reading, more of London’s historical spots below!