The Hidden Treasures Of All Hallows-By-The-Tower

All Hallows-by-the-Tower, named due its proximity to the Tower of London, is said to be the City of London’s oldest church; founded in 675AD.

At this incredibly historic church, you can observe the many layers of London’s history in all its glorious chaos, including Roman pavement, a Saxon arch, medieval stonework and twisted, deformed reminders of from the Blitz.

The History

The church was established in 675AD by Erkenwald, Bishop of London, for the Abbey of Barking. All Hallows means ‘all saints’.

Rebuilt and expanded many times in the medieval period, the church has elements from each incarnation. You can see a map here of the church and when each section dates from. Much of the main body of the church dates from the 15th century and the interiors generally from the 1950’s following significant damage during World War Two.

During the 16th and 17th centuries, the church acted as a temporary depository for the bodies of those who were beheaded on Tower Hill, including Sir Thomas More and Archbishop Laud.

The church managed to survive the Great Fire of London in 1666 due to the heroic efforts of Admiral Penn, father of William Penn: founder of Pennsylvania, who was baptised in the church.

He saved the church by ordering his sailors to blow up the surrounding buildings. It was from the tower of All Hallows that Penn and his friend, Samuel Pepys actually watched the fire.

All Hallows features on my self-guided Samuel Pepys walk.

Following the devastation of the Blitz, only the walls and tower survived and All Hallows was rebuilt and rededicated in 1957.

From 1922-1962 the vicar was Reverend Philip T B Clayton, or ‘Tubby’ Clayton. He founded the Toc H, international Christian movement, for which All Hallows is still the guild church.

Historical Highlights

There is honestly so much to see here, so I have selected my favourite historical treasures to seek out.

The Saxon arch– Amazingly, you can see an arch thought to date from the time of the first stone church that immediately followed the original Saxon wooden one. It is made partly from recycled Roman tiles and stones and was revealed by a bomb during the Blitz. There is also Saxon stonework down in the crypt.

The font cover– this beautiful item is thought to have been carved by Grinley Gibbons, dating from 1682 and is one of the finest in London.

The font itself was destroyed, along with so many other artefacts, during the Blitz. The current font was carved by a Sicilian prisoner of war called ‘Tulipani’ in 1944.

The Mariners Chapel– The wood from the crucifix in the Mariner’s Chapel comes from the Cutty Sark and the ivory figure is said to come from the Captain’s cabin of the flagship of the Spanish Armada.

For the real treasure trove though, you will want to head down into the crypt…

The Secrets Of the Crypt

The Crusades Altar– the altar in the Vicar’s vault is made partly of stones from Castle Athlit in Palestine: the final mainland Templar stronghold in the Holy Land during the crusades, evacuated in 1291. The stones were given to the church in 1940.

The Melted Metal- this piece of misshapen lead has been kept as a reminder of the Blitz.

In December 1940 a bomb came through the East window, destroying the church’s interior. Three weeks later the church was fire bombed. The raid had deliberately been timed when fire personnel were on Christmas holidays and when the Thames was at low-tide, making access to water more difficult.

The Cistern- it was in here that a vicar of the Church in the early 1700’s hid the parish records to keep them safe. They were discovered 200 years later in 1923!

Roman Remains

Map of Roman London– although not a historic artefact, this was one of my favourite items in the church. It is a 3D model of Roman London made in 1928.

It is complete with the defensive perimeter wall, fort and the Walbrook river running through the middle. You can also see the forum/basilica where Leadenhall Market now stands (no.10 on the photo below).

Roman pavement– Dating from the late 2nd century, this beautifully preserved section of Roman tesselated pavement is thought to have been the floor of a domestic home.

Roman gravestones– there are three casts of Roman gravestones found in or around the City of London during excavations. Each have amazing inscriptions.

How To Visit

All Hallows (EC3R 5BJ) is free to visit and open from 8am-5pm on weekdays, 10am-5pm on Saturdays and 11am-5pm on Sundays.

They run free guided tours most weekdays 2pm-4pm on demand, but it is advised you arrive before 3.30pm.

Find out more on their website here.

Thank you for reading, more of London’s hidden history below!