Crusaders and Kings: The Fascinating History Of Temple Church

Built in the 12th century, Temple Church is one of London’s oldest and, in my opinion, most beautiful churches.

It sits nestled within the tranquil warren of lanes, courtyards and gardens of the historic Temple enclave, hidden just off Fleet Street.

Origins: The Crusaders

Consecrated in 1185, Temple Church was originally built as the English headquarters of the Knights Templar. It was constructed at a point, that was then, just West of the city, outside the walls.

Established in 1118, the Knights Templar were a crusading order of knights who took monastic vows and aimed to protect pilgrims travelling to the Holy Land. They were given headquarters on Temple Mount by the King of Jerusalem.

The round nave was constructed first, inspired by the shape of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. It is one of only 4 round churches in England.

The chancel was added later in 1240.

It was at Temple Church that the Knights Templar conducted their famously mysterious initiation ceremonies. Initiates would enter through the West door at dawn before taking oaths of piety and chastity.

The secrecy was ultimately used against them by King Philip IV of France to attack the order and have it disbanded. Amongst the accusations were that they worshipped the devil, spat on the cross and kissed each other on the mouths. But anyway, I am getting slightly ahead of myself.

A King’s Stronghold

During the baronial crisis of 1213-15, that led to the signing of the Magna Carta, Temple Church acted as one of King John’s two bases in London, the other being the Tower of London.

The Templars gave King John protection and, due to their wealth, he used the church as his treasury.

In January 1215 the knight William Marshall mediated a meeting at Temple Church between King John and the barons. It was agreed at this meeting that the issues raised would be addressed and the Magna Carta was signed at Runnymede just a few months later in June.

Today you will find nine medieval effigies of knights in the nave, one of which is of William Marshal. Others include William’s son (also William Marshal) and Brother Aymeric, Master of the Knights Templar in England, all witnesses to the signing of the Magna Carta.  

Temple Church was also the setting for a famous scene in Dan Brown’s Da Vinci Code, revolving around these effigies. After the book came out in 2003, unsurprisingly the Church saw a huge surge in visitors.

The Fall of the Templars

The Templars were suppressed from 1307 and disbanded in 1312. Much of their wealth and property was then given to the Knights Hospitaller, including Temple Church, or seized by the crown. 

From the late 14th century much of the Temple area was then leased to lawyers. Two law institutions, known as the Inns of Court were established here. The Inner Temple was located on the consecrated ground around the church and the Middle Temple on the unconsecrated land.

The lawyers were allowed to stay as long as they maintained the church, which they still do to this day.

After the Knights Hospitaller were dissolved in 1539, Temple Church came under the control of the Crown and today is still what is known as a ‘Royal Peculiar’, i.e. like Westminster Abbey, is owned directly by the crown.

As a reminder of the church’s history and special status, the reverend of Temple Church is officially called “Reverend and Valiant Master of the Temple”.

Fire and War

Temple Church survived the Great Fire of London in 1666 but was refurbished by Sir Christopher Wren anyway. The church was also then significantly refurbished over the course of the 19th century.

It then suffered severe damage after incendiary bombs set the church alight on the night of the 10th-11th May 1941. Much of the church was subsequently restored after the war.

Some Details To Spot

Look closely at the wall in the nave and you will spot a series of brilliant grotesques. They would have probably originally been brightly coloured.

Make sure, if it is open, to go to the upper level (there is a spiral staircase on the North side). They sometimes have exhibitions up there but either way you can view the nave from above and admire the elaborate tiled flooring. 

Also, keep your eyes peeled for the pegasus and lamb and flag symbols around the church: the emblems of the Inner and Middle Temple Inns of Court.

These are thought to have potentially originated from original medieval floor tiles in the church, although there are other theories.

The Church Today and Visiting

The church is usually only open during the week for sightseeing.

It is open 10am-4pm Monday-Friday and costs £5 for adults for entry. They do also have ordinary services around those times.

Click here for their website to find out more about visiting: you won’t regret it.

Next on the list for me is to try and get to a choral service or organ recital. The acoustics are said to be very good and, in fact, Hans Zimmer apparently used the church to record parts of the soundtrack to the film Interstellar (2014).  

Thank you for reading, more of London’s hidden historical churches below!