A Look Inside Clapham South’s Deep Level Shelter

The London Transport Museum run Hidden London tours of various disused tube stations and subterranean sites. I went on their fascinating tour of the Clapham South Deep Level Shelter.

To start the tour you enter via this round structure on Balham Hill, before descending 180 steps below the surface. 

Down in the depths, between the intermittent rumblings of the Northern Line above your head, the guide then takes you through the history of this incredible site. 

An Air Raid Shelter

During the Blitz from 1940-41 Londoners naturally sought shelter wherever they could, including in underground stations. 

The government were not that keen on this practice in general anyway and the public also started to protest for better provision of shelters. Incidents, such as the bomb that hit the booking hall at Bank station on 11th January 1941 killing 56 civilians, also sparked the authorities into action.

They therefore ordered the construction of a series of deep level shelters along the Northern line.

London Transport was judged to be the only organisation capable of the project. Thankfully lots of the design and surveying work had already been carried out for the tunnels for a new express train line, following the route of the Northern line.

8 deep level shelters were built in total, each able to hold 8000 people.

The shelter consists of two 400 metre long tunnels with an upper and a lower section. Each sub-section at Clapham South is named after an admiral or naval figure. 

By the time the shelters were finished in 1942 the Blitz had ended, however five, including Clapham South, were opened from 1944-45 during the V1 and V2 rocket attacks.

Conditions In The Shelter

The government in their attempts at moral boosting referred to the shelters as ‘Underground palaces’, which feels a bit generous.

The shelters had rows of triple-tiered bunk beds. Those sheltering did however to bring their own bedding (imagine having to drag your mattress down all those stairs…). 

Should you want to use the shelter you would have to get a ticket from your council and this ticket would then assign you to a section and a bed.

As well as sleeping quarters there was also a medical centre, washing facilities and a canteen. There was apparently uproar at the canteen when the price of tea was raised to 2d (a tuppence), double the price of tea at ground level! Good to see Londoners had their priorities right. 

Music would often be played over the PA system to encourage dancing and a community atmosphere. 

The ‘Penny Hotel’

Bizarrely, after the war, they upgraded the facilities at Clapham South slightly and it was used as a cheap hotel for visitors to London, known as the ‘penny hotel’. No chance of a room with a view here!

In 1948 some of the migrants that disembarked from the Empire Windrush were put up here until they could be found somewhere to stay. After four weeks all had been found accommodation elsewhere. 

In 1951 it was rebranded as the ‘Festival Hotel’ for visitors to the Festival of Britain.

In 1956 soldiers billeted at the Goodge Street shelter accidentally started a fire. No-one was hurt but it took the authorities 3 days to put out and subsequently all the shelters were closed as accommodation. 

The Shelter Today

Today 7 of the 8 shelters are owned by Transport for London and are used for various purposes, including as archives and storage. The Clapham Common Shelter is used as a hydroponic farm, growing fruits and vegetables!

The tour was really fascinating and highly recommended. You can find out more about dates and booking here.

Thanks for reading! More of London’s historical hidden gems below.