Walthamstow is a village with ancient roots. It was recorded in the Domesday book as ‘Wilcumestou’, old English for ‘place of welcome’. The old heart of village around St Mary’s church, still has a lovely rural village feel.
Not only is there lots of history to see there is also some great spots to escape into nature. Read on to find out the route that I took through the Walthamstow wetlands and into the village, taking in all the top historical places of interest.
I would say set aside 1.5 hours, at a leisurely pace, for this history walk.
Walthamstow Wetlands
The Walthamstow Wetlands are on the site of reservoirs built between 1853 and 1904 by the East London Waterworks Company.
They are now Europe’s largest urban wetland nature reserve and is therefore teeming with wildlife. The 211 hectare site opened to the public in October 2017 and, via the 10 reservoirs, still provides water for 3.5 million people. It is a haven for wildlife, being an important breeding ground for wetland birds such as herons, egrets, tufted ducks and cormorants. On my walk I spent a good 10 minutes walking slowly behind a group of canada geese waddling between grazing spots, taking their sweet time.
You can find a map specifically of the wetlands here. It is open 10.30am-4pm in the winter and until 5pm in the summer and is totally free.
Walthamstow Wetlands: The Engine House
There are lots of history and remnants from the area’s industrial past. The first historical building you’ll see is the Engine House. It was built in 1894 during the set up of the reservoirs and was known as the Ferry Lane Pumping Station. This impressive Victorian industrial building is built, like many Victorian industrial buildings, in a simple but striking Italianate style. There is a cafe in here called The Larder should you fancy a coffee to fuel you for your walk!
Walthamstow Wetlands: The Coppermill Pump House
Another industrial relic is this beauty. It also has a fascinating history. There has been a mill here since at least the 14th century when it was used to grind corn. It then went through a variety of uses over the centuries. It was used for gunpowder production during the civil war 1642-1651, rolling paper and then in the production of leather and linseed oil. The British Copper Company purchased the mill in 1808 to turn copper ingots into pennies.
It was requisitioned by the East London Water works Company in 1859 as a pumping house. The beautiful Italianate Tower was added in 1864. You are ordinarily allowed to climb up the tower giving you a great view of the wetlands.
Walthamstow: The Lighthouse Methodist Church
You then walk along past the Coppermill lane water works and into residential Walthamstow. You will pass the Pumphouse Museum– an old Victorian sewage pumping station, now a museum to the area’s industrial heritage.
The Lighthouse Methodist Church was built in 1893 to accommodate Walthamstow’s growing population brought on by the growth of the railways. It’s founder was Captain King of the King, Bullard and Company ship liner company, hence the quirky lighthouse design. Apparently the lighthouse used to have a revolving beacon that would shine out during Sunday services!
The Sinking Cemetery
You know I can’t resist a cemetery. Walthamstow Cemetery opened in 1872 and is a bit of a strange one in that it appears to be sinking. A great number of the graves have been half consumed by the ground or have toppled over. Presumably this is down to lack of maintenance and subsidence. There is a petition from locals for the cemetery to be restored but it doesn’t look like they’ve had much luck yet.
One particular grave to look out for is that of Birt Acres (1854-1918)- a very early pioneer of cinema. He invented the first British 35mm moving picture camera and directed many early silent films. You can read more about him here. You can find his grave on the left side of the first right hand path as you enter.
The Ancient House
Now we are entering the ancient heart of Walthamstow. Walk up Orford road, past the town square and the old town hall (built in 1866). You will pass the Nag’s Head pub built in 1859. It is on the site of a much older pub and apparently it has a 16th century wine cellar.
The ‘Ancient House’ is a real historical gem. The house dates from the 15th century and has a beautiful timber frame. It was neglected for many years and restored in 1934 and 2002. You really feel like you have stepped back in time. Look out for the lovely Victorian Penfold vintage post-box as well.
St Mary’s Church
St Mary’s church has been at the heart of the Walthamstow community since the 12th century. Ralph de Toni, son of the standard bearer to William the Conqueror, had the first Norman church built here in 1108. The only parts that remain from this original church however are a couple of pillar bases. The tower dates from 1535 and the galleries were added in the 18th and 19th centuries. The south gallery was removed after extensive bomb damage in the second world war. Read more about the church here.
Monoux and Squires Almshouses
Round the back of the Church you will find the Monoux almshouses founded by Sir George Monoux, who was lord mayor of London in 1514. The buildings there today were mostly built in the 18th century but some parts date back to the 16th century. You will find them on Vinegar Alley, so called apparently because it was the churchyard next to this that would have been used to bury plague victims. Vinegar was used to line the paths in an attempt to ward off the disease.
The Squires Almshouses on Church End were built in 1795 for the village’s deserving poor. More specifically (as you will see on the rather strangely worded plaque on the front of the building) for ‘the use of six decayed tradesmen’s widows of this parish and no other’…
Vestry House Museum
This building was constructed in 1730 as the parish workhouse. It has seen many uses since then, as the police station, armoury and for building merchants. It is now a local history museum for the Waltham Forest area. You can see the famous Bremer car here- the first car with an internal combustion engine. It was created in 1892 by Frederick William Bremer, who was a Walthamstow local. Find out more about visiting here.
William Morris Gallery
Head to Shernhall Street- one of the ancient routes in the village. If you fancy (and it’s open) pop into God’s Own Junkyard, an amazing warehouse of vintage neons and signs. On the way to the William Morris gallery you will see the current town hall, finished in 1942. It was built in the simplified classical style with art deco elements which are rather pleasing.
The last stop on our walk is the William Morris gallery. William Morris, the 19th century’s most famous textile designer, lived in this gorgeous Georgian house (built in the 1740s) from 1848-1856. The house was donated to the public in 1900 by its then owner. The gallery was opened in 1950 by the Prime Minister, Clement Attlee. The adjacent Lloyd’s Park, once part of the grounds of the house, are also worth a wander round. Read more about visiting the gallery here.
PS. Walthamstow also has Europe’s longest street market- spanning roughly a kilometre! It operates Tuesday-Friday 8am-5pm and Saturdays 8am-5.30pm in normal times. Find out more here.
So there we have it- a historical Walthamstow wander. I hope you enjoyed reading. If you go on the walk I would love to receive any feedback you may have!
Thank you for reading! Perhaps you would enjoy this historical self-guided walk too?
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It’s a lovely place. Especially to us west Londoners who view the Far East with scepticism! Other things you could look out fir there is the one of London’s most beautiful Art Deco buildings the Waltham Forest town hall, Gods own junkyard, Europe’s longest outdoor market. Starley the inventor of the modern bicycle has a memorial plaque by the alms houses
You may wish to check out a bike ride I did to Walthamstow on .www.wheremyfeetgo.uk
Go to writings and routes Q2
Julian
Hi Julian, thanks for your comment! I give the town hall, god’s own junkyard and market a mention in the blog but not in a lot of detail because they weren’t part of my actual walk. I will definitely see more of them when I am next there though! Did not spot the plaque either so thanks for that. Great photos on your blog as well!
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Thank you so much for this. I live in Australia now, but my grandmother was from Walthamstow and my grandparents were married at St Mary’s.
Our plans to go to London last year had to be postponed. But when we get there, I will definitely take this walk around Walthamstow.
Hi Bronwyn, thank you for your comment! That’s lovely to hear. You’ll have to let me know how you get on with the walk when you do it. (Hopefully won’t be too long until you can visit again!)
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Thanks so much for this great blog post! I was very interested to read when St Mary’s graveyard was first opened. I researched Mrs Mary Squire, the tradesman’s widow (though not herself decayed. She wasn’t in need of charity), who founded the Squire’s Almshouses there. She was buried at St Mary’s but from what you said it can’t have been in the graveyard, because she died in 1797. Aha! I really appreciate that. It never occurred to me to check (I’ll remember not to make that mistake again). Must have been inside the church then.
It looks like Mary did not inherit most her money from her husband, a box maker, but from her widowed mother, Mrs Paradise Barrow née Hunt, who got it from her second husband Sir John Condor (or Conder). I haven’t found anything more about him. The rules that the six widows had to follow to live there are quite interesting too. No overnight visitors, don’t you know!
Hi Giselle, thanks so much for your comment. Really glad you enjoyed the blog. I think maybe you slightly misinterpreted the graveyard bit- the graveyard I refer to first is Walthamstow Cemetery or Queen’s Road cemetery which is not by St Mary’s, unless I am misunderstanding your comment! Either way, thanks again and good luck with your research, sounds interesting! Jack
Just to confirm that Mrs Mary Squires is indeed buried in the churchyard, possibly with her husband. The burial register has (very helpfully) in the notes column, ‘Foundress of the Almshouses’. She is included in a Churchyard Trail called ‘Women of Walthamstow’ and I was wondering where your information re her mother etc was found?
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Enjoyed reading this piece about Walthamstow. It’s probably a legend that there are plague pits in St Mary’s Churchyard; there is no evidence to suggest that there are plague pits in the churchyard. Vinegar Alley was possible named because of vinegar used in the tanning industry based near the site of the Monoux Almshouses.
My husband and I did this walk today. It was brilliant – thank you very much! Started from Tottenham Hale and went back to Walthamstow Central. Good choice of places to eat on Orford Road.
Ah brilliant! Really pleased you enjoyed it!
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Dear Bronwyn I know how you feel when you watch this. I now live in Italy, and at the ripe old age of 80 not too sure if I will see Walthamstow again. I was born there, lived 28 years in Church Lane and was married in St Mary’s. All these wonderful videos etc have brought back so many memories, my grandparents, and aunt, uncle and two cousins also lived in Church Lane, looks like it is still a lovely little community.