Beasts On The Banks: A Walk Along the Thames

Take a stroll along the Victoria embankment and you will find lions, eagles and camels. Don’t worry this isn’t me reporting some sort of zoo break-out scenario, I am referring to the wonderful array of animal decorations and memorials that brighten up the the embankments. We’re talking fish lampposts, camel benches, a giant 13 ton lion and more.

This walk will take you from Blackfriar’s bridge (nearest tube station: Blackfriars) along to Lambeth Palace (nearest tube: Lambeth North). Have children with you? Perhaps you could ask them how many different types of animal they can see, or to count the different species!

Fish Lampposts

You will see these brilliant lampposts along the whole stretch. They are officially called ‘Dolphin lampposts’, although actually depict sturgeon fish.

Victorian London was expanding rapidly in the mid-19th century and the sewage system was still rudimentary (essentially with everything draining into the river). This caused huge hygiene issues including a deadly cholera epidemic killing thousands.

Civil engineer Joseph Bazalgette masterminded a new system that would take the sewage away from the city. To do this he reclaimed roughly 22 acres worth of land on the banks of the river. The Victoria embankment was built with a main sewage pipe running through it and a road and promenade were constructed on top.

Naturally the new road and pavement needed a bit of decoration. Lots of designs were submitted and the designs of George John Vulliamy, the Superintending Architect of the Metropolitan Board of Works, were decided upon for this stretch of the river. The dolphin lampposts depict two cast-iron sturgeons wrapped around the post with the face of Neptune, Roman god of the sea, in the centre. Many of the originals from 1870 still exist and lots have been added, as the embankments have been further developed.

Camel and Sphinx Benches

George Vulliamy also designed these amazing Egyptian themed benches along with the two large sphinxes flanking Cleopatra’s Needle. The Egyptian theme was inspired by Cleopatra’s Needle itself, an obelisk from ancient Egypt- roughly 1450BC. It was donated to the UK by the ruler of Egypt in 1819 but only arrived in the UK in 1878 due to the financial costs of transportation. Read about its dramatic journey to the UK and what’s buried underneath it in my blog post here!

The camel and sphinx benches were put in place in 1877 in preparation for the Needle’s arrival. The large bronze sphinxes on either side of the needle were designed and added in 1881. They were installed incorrectly/against tradition, facing in towards the Needle instead of outwards.

Royal Air Force Memorial Eagle

You can’t miss this gloriously golden shining eagle, part of the Royal Air Force memorial. It was initially dedicated to the RAF casualties during the First World War and was unveiled in 1923. As you will see from the inscriptions, it was then also dedicated to the RAF servicemen who gave their lives in the Second World War.

Each year on Battle of Britain day (September 15th) the Chief of the Air Staff lays a wreath here.

The Horses of the Boadicea And Her Daughters Statue

Boadicea And Her Daughters is surely one of the most dramatic statues in London. It was sculpted between 1856 and 1885 by artist engineer Thomas Thornycroft. It depicts Boudica/Boadicea, Queen of the Iceni tribe, who led a rebellion against Roman occupation in 60AD.

Prince Albert and Queen Victoria were involved in the project and Prince Albert actually lent Thornycroft the two horses on which the rearing horse statues were modelled. It was cast in 1898 and finally put up in its current location in 1902.

Lion Mooring Rings

These bronze lion mooring rings were created for Bazalgette’s new embankments in 1868.

The myth goes: ‘When the lions drink, London will sink. When it’s up to their manes, we’ll go down the drains’.

It is however out of date now. 12 inches of height was added before the Thames Barrier was constructed in 1984. There have been more very high tides since the 1980s that would have flooded the old embankment.

Here is my new suggested rhyme: ‘When the lions drink, your heart may sink. Don’t worry though, there’s 12 inches to go!’. Comment below if you have any better ideas!

The South Bank Lion

This magnificent beast, standing proudly at the South end of Westminster bridge, has a fascinating history. The lion once stood on the roof of the Lion Brewery, located where royal festival hall is now, from 1837 to 1949, when it was demolished.

He is made out of Coade stone- a special ‘artificial stone’ recipe made by Eleanor Coade who had her workshop on the Southbank. It was used frequently in the late 18th and early 19th century due to its durability and frost-resistance. The Coade Artificial Stone Company was eventually wound up in 1840 when artificial stone went out of fashion and having lost the brilliant Eleanor in 1821. The Coade stone lions for the Lion brewery were in fact the last items to be produced in coade stone.

The lion was nearly demolished with the brewery but thankfully King George VI stepped in to save this icon of the South Bank.

Swan Benches

Our final stop are these rather lovely cast-iron swan benches. These were also installed in 1870 along with the fish lampposts and are also grade ii listed.

And there we have it! I hope you enjoyed the walk. There are definitely more animals to see along this stretch so let me know if you spot anymore.

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Looking for more hidden gems, curiosities and suggested walks? Have a look below!