The Ghost Shop Signs Of Spitalfields: A Window To The Past

Spitalfields is an undeniably fascinating area of London, with a unique sense of community and spirit.

The name comes from the hospital and priory of St Mary’s Spittel founded here in 1197.

Being just outside the old city walls, it has for much of its history been a first port of call in the city for immigrants fleeing hardship. French Huguenots fleeing religious persecution in France settled here in the late 17th century and since then many other migrants have followed suit. You can read more about the architectural legacy of the Huguenots in Spitalfields here.

As well as this it has always been an area of commerce and production. The now world famous market was established here in the 13th century and each group of migrants brought their own skills and specialities to the area.

Clues to this history can be read in the ghost shop signs still to be seen today. Below I have used my favourite shop signs as a guide through the history of the area.

You know I love a map, so here is one if you wanted to seek them all out for yourself.

Donovan Bros: Irish Migration from the 1730’s

After the French Huguenot weavers in the 17th century came the Irish weavers. The migration of the Irish into the area began in the 1730’s with the collapse of the Irish linen trade. There was also a large influx of Irish migrants into London following the potato famine in the 1830’s.

The Donovan Brothers were two such immigrants, fleeing the hardship brought on by the potato famine. Dennis O’Donovan went to America and Jeremiah came to London, at first settling in Aldgate. The paper bag company seen above was founded in the 1930’s. Donovan Bro’s are still operating today under descendants of the family in the New Spitalfields Market in Leyton.

A. Gold: Jewish Migration from the 1880’s

Between 1881 and 1914 over 2.5 million Jews migrated Westwards from Eastern Europe, fleeing religious persecution. The vast majority of these went to America but many also came to London and other cities in Western Europe. From 1880-1970 Spitalfields had a predominantly Jewish population and, with over 40 synagogues, likely one of the largest Jewish communities in Europe.

Annie Gold and her husband Jacob were two of these Jewish migrants. She set up her French millinery (hat-making) business here at 42 Brushfield Street in 1889. Annie and Jacob lived above the shop until 1892.

The synagogue at Sandy’s Row in Spitalfields was first established as a Christian Church in 1766 but was converted into a synagogue in 1867, again showing the changes each new set of migrants brought.

David Kira: Jewish Migration through to today

The Jewish links to the area go right through to the present day. Sam Kira was a Jewish immigrant from Poland who settled in Southend (my home town!) in the 1920’s. Sam set up a banana trading company called El Dorado Bananas.

His son David set up shop at 1 Fournier Street which is the sign that we can still see today. After the Second World War he built up the business to be the market’s foremost banana merchants. It was based here until 1991 and you can read a lovely article here on David’s son Stuart’s return to the site in 2011.

Godfrey Phillips: Industry and Production from the 1900’s

Not strictly a shop sign but the area’s industrial links are demonstrated by the Godfrey Phillips art deco cigarette factory on Commercial Street.

Godfrey Phillips founded his tobacco company in 1844. He registered the company as Godfrey Phillips Ltd in 1908, operating from Commercial Street with factories all over the world from Edinburgh to Bombay to Melbourne. In 1936 this new factory and HQ opened at 112 Commercial Street built by GG Scott.

Modern Saree Centre: Bangladeshi Migration from the 1950’s

From the 1950’s through to the 1970’s large numbers of Bangladeshis started migrated into the industrial cities of the UK. In London they settled predominantly in the Spitalfields and Brick Lane area.

This ghost shop sign at number 22 Princelet Street is a great reminder of this stage in the history of Spitalfields.

W & A Jones and Conservation from the 1990’s

Just one door down from David Kira you will find this slightly faded little number.

It was apparently once a pawnbrokers but the main reason I have included it is its link to the conservation of the area’s heritage.

This sign was carefully restored by Jim Howett in 1998. He had to use a palette knife to pick away the paint and reveal the writing underneath. Jim also restored A. Gold, David Kira, Verde and Co, so we have a lot to thank him for! He was also commissioned to create signs for new shops so that they would remain in keeping with the character of the area.

Another great article from Spitalfields Life on Jim’s beautiful restoration of the shop signs here.

Verde & Co Ltd and Small Business Challenges from the 2000’s

The building with the lovely Verde and Co ghost shop sign dates from 1789 (the year of the start of the French revolution for reference). It was a fruit and veg shop on and off for much of its life, with market porters accommodation above.

The, then derelict, Georgian building was bought in 1996 by writer Jeanette Winterson and she opened a deli here in the early noughties.

Sadly she has had to sell it in more recent years due to business rate hikes. My inclusion of Verde and Co is not just for the beautiful sign and history that can be gleaned from it but also as an indication of the challenges the small businesses are facing now in Spitalfields and all over London.

I have heard Montezuma’s, the chocolate shop here now, is great.

The individuality and spirit of small business is what has makes Spitalfields such a popular destination for Londoners and tourists alike today.

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