St Magnus the Martyr church is located in a slightly strange position in the modern city, squashed between the busy road of Lower Thames Street and the river.
It was once however positioned right at the Northern end of London Bridge, making it one of the City’s most prominent and significant churches. It has a fascinating story to tell and today is packed with historical surprises.
St Magnus the Martyr
It is thought that a church has been on the site since at least the 12th century.
St Magnus the Martyr was one of the first churches to burn down in the Great Fire in 1666 due to its proximity to Pudding Lane. Thomas Farriner, in whose bakery the fire began, was actually a churchwarden at St Magnus and was buried beneath the aisle when he died in 1670.
The rebuilding of St Magnus the Martyr under Sir Christopher Wren was completed in 1687. It was one of his most expensive churches and the spire, added in 1706, is considered one of his finest.
St Magnus suffered damage during the Blitz but was subsequently restored and given Grade I listed status in 1950.
You can read a full and very detailed history of the church here.
The Link To London Bridge
There had been a series of wooden London Bridges throughout the Anglo-Saxon period, but it was rebuilt in stone in 1209.
It aligned with Fish Street Hill and ran straight past the entrance to St Magnus the Martyr church. St Magnus would therefore be the first church travellers crossing London Bridge from the South would arrive at.
In the 1760s a new walkway onto London Bridge was constructed and archways were cut into the base of the tower for people to pass through, making it the pedestrian entranceway onto the bridge. It therefore became a sort of ‘gateway’ into London.
In 1831 the old London Bridge was demolished and rebuilt 30 metres Westwards. Stones from the old London Bridge can be found in the churchyard.
You can read about other remnants of the old London Bridge here.
The Incredible Model
The medieval London Bridge is considered one of the wonders of the medieval world and inside St Magnus the Martyr is an incredible four metre long model of it.
Depicting the bridge as it would have looked in around 1440, the model was created in 1987 by David T Aggett, predominantly out of cardboard boxes.
Frost Fairs And ‘Shooting The Bridge’
Firstly, the 19 arches. These are what partly slowed the flow of the river, meaning the Thames occasionally froze over and ‘frost fairs’, basically massive carnivals, could take place on the ice. The last of these was in 1814.
The water also flowed dangerously fast and turbulently through the arches due to how narrow they were.
If approaching the bridge in a little ferry, passengers generally disembarked and hailed another on the other side. Some watermen however would attempt to go through the arches, known as ‘shooting the bridge’, leading to many drownings.
A Community Over The Thames
As you can see from the model, London Bridge was lined with houses and shops, teetering treacherously over the river below, until they were removed in 1761 to ease congestion.
The buildings were rented out, with the profits used to maintain the bridge and, being so busy, it also became a key market street in London.
The houses were so close together, with overhanging upper floors, a practice known as jettying, that some sections of the street were said to feel like tunnels.
A Tumult Of Life
There are over 900 figurines on and around the model bridge.
London Bridge was the only physical crossing over the Thames in central London right up until 1750 when Westminster Bridge was constructed. This meant it was always incredibly congested with pedestrians, horses, carts and livestock and it could apparently take up to an hour to cross the bridge on foot on some days.
You can see a figure of King Henry V at the Southwark end.
It is difficult to spot but also look for a little figure at odds with his surroundings. This modern day policeman represents David T Aggett, the maker of the model, who was formerly in the police service.
The Chapel and the Gatehouse
Spot also the Chapel of St Thomas on the Bridge, dedicated to St Thomas Becket. It was constructed in 1209 and remained as a chapel until 1548, when it was dissolved during the Reformation.
There is also a dramatic gatehouse complete with a drawbridge. This could be raised twice a day to let taller ships through.
Don’t miss the heads on spikes of executed traitors displayed on top as a warning to anyone entering the city. The heads of Sir Thomas More and William Wallace were, for example, displayed in this way after their executions.
What Else To Look Out For
As well as the stones from the old London Bridge in the churchyard, look out for a section of wood thought to be a part of a Roman wharf dating from around 75AD.
Just inside the entranceway there is also this amazing manual fire engine. The plaque says it is potentially late 17th century but I think it is probably 18th century.
It belonged to the parish of St Michael’s Crooked Lane, which was demolished for a new road in 1831. The parish was amalgamated with St Magnus the Martyr. In 1707 the parish pump act was brought in to ensure every parish had fire fighting equipment ready to use.
The church also has a memorial to Miles Coverdale who was Rector of the church from 1563-66 and the first translator of the Bible into English working with William Tyndale.
Visiting St Magnus the Martyr
St Magnus the Martyr is an absolute must for any fan of London history.
The church is open 10am-3pm weekdays but closed on Mondays. I visited at about 11am on a Thursday, which was perfect as I believe most lunchtimes at around 12.30ish a mass takes place.
See their website here.
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Excellent start to the day, many thanks!
An amazing model. What a lot of skill the maker had. June
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Love your posts. I’ve just returned from 6 weeks visiting the UK . Unfortunately I missed out on your walking tours. Next time I’ll book way before I leave NZ.
Thanks for all the interesting info.
I saw a model of London Bridge with houses on it a long time ago but without fugures. It was displayed in the museum at Canary Wharf the first time I visited but was in storage the next time I went a few years later. A very interesting article, thank you.
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