Exploring The Beautiful And Fascinating Islands Of Guernsey

In late April this year I went on a trip to Guernsey in partnership with Visit Guernsey. I had an amazing time because it is both a really lovely place to spend four days (we had gorgeous weather which always helps), it has stunning beaches and walks, but also is packed to the rafters with history.

This year, 2025, is particularly important because, on the 9th May, they are celebrating the 80th anniversary of their Liberation Day. The Channel Islands were the only part of the British Isles that were occupied by the Germans and it is a huge part of the island’s unique story.

It has lots of incredible survivors from that period, as well as plenty of other quirky sights. Below you can see a map of the locations I visited:

Old Government House Hotel

I stayed at the Old Government House Hotel and Spa. The building, at the heart of St Peter Port, the capital and port of Guernsey, was built in the early 1700s as a merchant’s home. The original core building still survives, but has been added to over the centuries. In 1796 it was acquired by the Government of Guernsey and became the home of the Lieutenant Governor. This is a position that still exists, but today is more of a ceremonial and diplomatic position. 

In 1857 it was leased and eventually purchased by John Gardner and became a hotel, in the style of an ‘old and comfortable country mansion’. On the afternoon of 28th June 1940, Guernsey was invaded by the Germans and the hotel became their General Staff Headquarters. In early 1941 it became a ‘Soldatenheim’, a ‘soldier’s home’, where officers and soldiers could eat, drink, relax and spend their leave.

After the war it became a hotel again and in 2008 it was purchased by the Red Carnation Hotel Group. 

Today is has a spa, a fantastic restaurant and great views over the harbour.

A Tour Around Island

On our first day we went on a fantastic half day tour with Jackie Ward, our guide. She gave us a really thorough understanding of Guernsey, how it operates and showed us many of the hidden treasures and war remnants we would have otherwise possibly missed. 

We saw the unusual ‘Little Chapel’.

The Little Chapel was the labour of love of a monk called Brother Deodat, aiming to create a miniature replica of the Basilica at Lourdes, encrusted and decorated with shards of pottery, seashells and pebbles.

The current structure is actually his third attempt. He started the first in March 1914 but started again when it was criticised by his fellow monks. He then demolished the second when, in 1923, a visiting bishop could not fit through the door. Deodat sadly left the third version unfinished when he went to France in 1939, where he died, but it has since been completed.

I also saw Victor Hugo’s house, Hauteville House, who lived in exile on Guernsey from 1856-1870. It was however unfortunately not open when I was there.

Bunkers

In October 1941 Hitler ordered the permanent fortification of the Channel Islands and within three years they became one of the most heavily fortified outposts of occupied Europe. Guernsey therefore still covered with survivors from this period today.

Below for example is Gun Pit No. 3 of a German Coastal Artillery Battery, Batterie Dollmann. The gun is actually a French gun restored by Guernsey Armouries in 1997. 

The exterior of the island is littered with concrete bunkers. They were often built with enforced labour, prisoners brought in from other conquered areas. Due to Guernsey never experiencing a major attack, most of the World War remnants are in an incredibly well-preserved state. 

Below is Observation Tower MP4 L’Angle. 

German Occupation Museum 

The German Occupation Museum was next on the list. The museum itself has an interesting story behind it. It is owned and operated by Richard Heaume. Richard was born in 1944, when Guernsey was still under occupation and as a schoolboy he began collecting bullets from the local fields. In 1966 his parents allowed him to use the cottage opposite their house to display his collection and over the subsequent years the building and the collection has grown. Richard is still on the front desk to greet you today. 

It is a treasure trove of old posters, artefacts, weapons, letters, vehicles and more. 

It really did a good job I think of bringing out the human stories, often tragic, often inspiring, as well as the intricacies of changes to life under the occupation. 

This is a V sign that was painted onto a rock by a resident as a small act of defiance. Germans would then paint a green laurel wreath underneath it to imply German victory. 

Many received news, uncensorred, from illicit ‘crystal sets’, radios made by wrapping a piano wire around a crystal.

The Germans renamed all the roads with colours and numbers. They also changed the side of the road you drive on to the right rather than the left.

German Underground Hospital 

The German Underground Hospital was a really fascinating part of my visit. I was lucky enough to be shown around by Steve Powell and Pierre Renier, from Festung Guernsey, a volunteer group who aim to keep open and maintain the most important fortifications on the island. 

At 75,000 square feet, this sprawling underground maze is the largest physical survivor from the Occupation on the island. 

The tunnels were used initially as shelters for infantry soldiers and a machine gun company and designed to withstand an attack. It was partially, however, later used as a hospital and an ammunition store. 

The hospital could hold 800 people. It never reached capacity but it experienced its busiest period after D-Day when a number of the German wounded were brought here. 

You can see here some footprints in the concrete. Even showing the detail of the German hobnail boots. 

The tunnels here have been largely left untouched and unrestored. The history therefore feels tangible and for history lovers is a must-do experience when visiting Guernsey.

Castle Cornet

Dominating the entranceway to the port is Castle Cornet. The first castle was built here by the English in the 13th century and since has been embellished and expanded. It was besieged by the French in the Hundred Years War and changed hands four times. In the English Civil War it was the last Royalist stronghold in the British Isles  to surrender to Parliament, in 1651, having held out for nine years. 

The castle was then upgraded in the Napoleonic Wars and taken over by the Germans in World War Two. It is therefore an interesting structural amalgamation of these different military eras. 

You can visit today and great views over the port. They also have an interesting section about Guernsey’s contribution in the First World War.

Priaulx Library

The Priaulx Library was another port of call on our visit. They have a vast range of occupation related materials. At the moment, for Liberation Day, there is a Liberation based exhibiton displayed outside the front. 

There are lots of occupation era newspapers, clearly censorred and sanitised by the German censor. 

They also have a few letters, sent on Red Cross enquiry papers out of Guernsey. Rules around sending ‘enquiries’ were highly restrictive and Guernsey families could generally only send one enquiry per month, initially limited to 25 words. It was forbidden to make reference to supply shortages, deportations or any other sensitive issues. 

This letter from Mabel to someone on Guernsey for example uses code words such as ‘Hubbard’ for food supplies, i.e. Hubbard = Mother Hubbard (from the nursery rhyme) = cupboard = food supplies. Dickens and Jones refers to a department store, so is used in place of clothing and ‘the Old King’ is referring to Old King Cole aka coal/fuel.

Herm

One of the less historical but definite highlights of my trip was visiting the island of Herm. The small island of Herm is just a twenty minute ferry from St Peter Port and is one of the islands under the Bailiwick of Guernsey. It is a wildlife haven with stunning unspoilt beaches, cliff walks and enough hospitality facilities to make it a comfortable visit.

On a future visit I would love to visit the island of Sark, which is the world’s first ‘dark sky’ island with no cars and very little light pollution. 

Restaurants and travel 

For those interested in logistics, I got the ferry over to Guernsey from Poole. It takes a bit longer than flying but is more interesting, with sights such as Old Harry, the stack in Dorset, along the way. 

It left at 14:15 and got us in at 17:15pm, it was then just a short walk or taxi up into town. 

Coming back I got the 10am ferry, which got us back in at 1pm. There are a number of different lengths of ferry, time of day and destination, so it is worth making sure you pick the correct one. It is, of course, also possible to fly there. 

We ate at some great restaurants: 

The Brasserie of Old Government House Hotel and Spa

Le Nautique, Guernsey’s oldest established restaurant

Copenhagen

Balthazar

The Rockmount (there is a lovely beach here as well)

Thank you so much for reading! More trips from London below…