I was delighted to recently be invited to have a look around Goldsmiths’ Hall.
Located at the junction of Gresham Street and Foster Lane, just North of St Paul’s Cathedral, it is one of the most opulent buildings in London. It is the headquarters of the Goldsmiths Company, one of the 111 livery companies in the City.
You can see another of my blog posts on livery halls here.
The Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths
The livery companies generally started as medieval trading guilds around certain trades: ironmongers, butchers, saddle-makers etc.
The Goldsmiths Company received its royal charter in 1327; recognising its established position in regulating the standards of gold and silverware at the time. It also acted as a combination between a trade union and business association for gold and silversmiths in London.
Later in the 14th century they bought land in this area of the City to set up their first headquarters. They have been in this area of the City, just to the North of St Paul’s Cathedral ever since.
I was lucky enough to be shown a few very old documents from the Company’s extensive archives.
This is a 15th century book of Ordinances, showing their rules and regulations.
As you can see, it is incredibly well preserved, the colours still bright and fresh.
Below is the Apprentice Book listing the names of the apprentices being trained by the company at the time.
You can see this entry below for example for a Samuel Todd in 1649.
It looks like Samuel was illiterate when he joined the company, because he has marked his name with an ‘x’. 1649 for context was the year Charles I was beheaded during the English civil war and I think the writing almost looks like it could have been written yesterday!
Origins of ‘hallmarking’
From 1290 the King passed a law that required all gold or silver smiths to bring their metal to Goldsmiths’ Hall to be checked for weight and quality. If it was of the correct quality it would be stamped or marked with the leopards head, a symbol taken from the three lions on the royal coat of arms.
This is where we get the term ‘hallmarked’ from, as it would have to be brought to the hall to be marked.
The leopard heads were later incorporated into the coat of arms of the Goldsmiths and is the emblem of the Goldsmiths Company still today.
They still have a hallmarking service at the hall today and they make their own hallmarks and punches, meaning they are one of the only surviving manufacturing businesses in the Square Mile.
Other Roles
The Goldsmiths also do an annual check of new coinage in a ceremony called the Trial of the Pyx. The ceremony dates back to the 12th century. The ‘pyx’ bit refers to the chests in which the coins were traditionally kept (in Westminster Abbey in the Pyx Chamber), from the latin ‘pyxis’ meaning for a small box.
They also put a lot of money into training apprentices in the trade, have an annual contemporary jewellery fair and act as a society for goldsmiths and jewellers across the country.
The History Of The Hall
Not very much is known about the first hall on the site. It was rebuilt in the 1630s but was then gutted during the Great Fire, with only the exterior walls remaining.
It was subsequently restored and remained looking like it does in the picture below until the 1830s.
By the 1830s it was a bit dilapidated so was rebuilt again.
The current building was designed by the Company’s surveyor Philip Hardwick. It was opened officially on the 15th July 1835 with a lavish dinner with guests including Sir Robert Peel and the Duke of Wellington.
From the outside it is a grand Italianate, Portland stone building, dominating the corner site of Gresham Street and Foster Lane.
Features of the Hall
The Staircase Hall
You enter the building and enter the majestic Staircase Hall. 10 different types of marble are used and a rich red carpet flows up the stairs.
The four sculptures are by Samuel Nixon and represent the four seasons. Look up to see the incredible domed ceiling.
This gilded wooden statue at the top of the stairs depicts St Dunstan, patron saint of goldsmiths. and it was made for the front of the Goldsmiths’ state barge in 1744.
The Livery Hall
This is the stunning main space: the livery hall. It has an extravagant moulded ceiling and everywhere you look are little details and gold gilding.
The hall has four huge chandeliers each holding 48 candles that can be lowered and lit. Large oil paintings of Queen Victoria, Prince Albert and Queen Adelaide sit between the columns and sculptures of other monarchs.
The Court Room
Lots of features of this room are actually from the previous Goldsmiths Hall, such as the 18th century fireplace.
The clock over the fireplace dates from 1720 and the mirror is a George I mirror purchased in 1741.
The mahogany furniture was specifically made for this room, including the long table for council meetings.
The room is of course covered in leopard head symbols, there are apparently 55 in total in the hall.
At the end of the room you will find this stone.
Amazingly, it is a Roman stone altar, dating from the second century AD, found by workmen in 1830 excavating the foundations of this building.
It was traditionally thought to depict the goddess Diana but they now think it is a London hunter-god.
The Drawing Room
This is a beautiful drawing room. It may look rather familiar to some readers as it is often used as a replacement for Buckingham Palace in TV shows and films.
The Crown was filmed here, for example, including the scene when Diana rollerskates around the palace and the ones of her in her wedding dress. You can see some photos here.
Parts of Bridgerton were also filmed here.
On the walls are a couple of large 18th century tapestries.
The odd-looking orange leg was revealed in a recent renovation of the tapestry. It had apparently been erased in the 19th century for being a bit racy…
The Luncheon Room
This is the Luncheon Room, originally the ‘Tea Room’. In the room you will find the below painting by Terence Cuneo. It depicts Queen Elizabeth II at a Mansion House banquet in 1954.
Cuneo is known for hiding a little mouse in all of his paintings.
How To Visit
Goldsmiths’ Hall is not ordinarily open to the public but there are a couple of opportunities to visit.
They hold a few open days a year, you can see them here. They also host the Goldsmiths’ Fair once a year for a fortnight in Sep/Oct.
Thank you for reading, more of London’s incredible history below…
Mapping The Tube: The Evolution Of A Design Icon
I recently had a fascinating visit to the Map House in Knightsbridge. The Map House…
Why Is Whitechapel Called Whitechapel?
Whitechapel in London’s East End is a fascinating area of the city. It has, really…
Ten Secrets Of Hampton Court Palace
Hampton Court Palace is one of London’s most historic locations. The place just oozes with…
The Chelsea Physic Garden: London’s Oldest Botanic Garden
Largely hidden from view, enclosed behind a brick wall in Chelsea is a beautiful and…
Thanks Jack for another great post!
Loved this, spectacular
So beautiful, what a stunning place. Thank you for sharing this.
Thank you so much, Jack, for this travel to the past along the opulent building and exciting storyline
Thank you for this post. An incredible building
Love reading your posts. They make me dream of a return visit. You are a wonderful ambassador for the city.
Tours for 2024 all sold out!
Absolutely WONDERFUL!!!!!! Thank you so very very much. Patsy